A modern take on full throttle shiraz with a blistering attack of bitter cherry, amaro and bitter coffee grind to chocolate-soused tannins. A smudge of olive, violet scents and an undercarriage of smoked meat, too. The elevage comprised 25 months maturation (20% new French wood; the remainder 1-4yo vessels). One for the hedonists, perhaps. But a wine, too, that suggests just how far we have come when considering a flamboyant style such as this.

- James Halliday